Plane: Aeroworks 96″ Extra-260 ARF QB™
Servos: JR 8711s
Pros: Easy quick assembly. Great flying little plane. Reliable, dependable company with great service.
The plane is on the way…. this seemed like the best engine for the job:
- JR 8711s all around
- Fromeco batteries and switches
- Smart-Fly PowerSystem EQ-6 (which has 8 channels, 6 are equalized. The unit also includes an ignition cutoff and either a super or turbo reg on the front)
- Kirbys Kustom Vinyl Graphics
- Truturn 4″ Ultimate Spinner
- ZAP glues
- and some DUBRO and www.microfasteners.com hardware
The plane arrived in great shape:
I started with the cowl box. First thing you notice is the plywood reinforcement to protect the precious cargo:
Plywood and double boxed:
‘Monkey’ helped me finish unpacking the cowl:
‘Monkey’ was like “OMG, it’s so nice!”:
‘Monkey’ was all, “Aeroworks and Milano Wine… it doesn’t get any better than this!”:
The wings come with the protective plywood packaging and they are also double boxed:
The wings get wrapped in bubble wrap, too:
The aileron and elevator hinging is already done at the factory. I noticed that the surfaces fall bevel to bevel with no binding and there is no glue in the knuckles of the pre-installed (glued in) hinges.Yes, the hinges are glued in already. The hinge and bevel job looks just great! Here’s a shot of the elevators (remember, these hinges are already glued in at the factory):
The fuse looks beautiful, like it was built by one of the very best builders out there. It is a few ounces heavier than it has to be due to the fact it is setup for a drop-in canister installation. The can tunnel is built and lined with balsa, the formers have saddles cut into them, and the can mounts just bolt on to pre-drilled holes (the can mounts are included, as well). Cans take no extra time on this QB™:
Going Fromeco batteries, regs, switches, etc… but also with the new Fromeco D-Cup. Anyone that has followed me for years knows I’ve worried about the power our servos need, and try to provide it to them. But, what also has worried me is low voltage spikes to the receiver. Those that have paid close attention know that I’ve been running Emcotec Filter Capacitors for the last year, or so. Now I’ll be trying out these new Fromeco D-Cups which are said to have over 100x (or was it 300x ?) the capacity of the Emcotec model. Rumor has it with the D-Cup your plane will stay on a few seconds after you turn it off. This ability to carry the receiver through a low voltage spike from high G and/or high current draw manuevers is just what we’ve been needing since all these how powered servos hit the market:
This is my 5th “QB” and even though the first one was amazingly easy to put together and set a new standard for ARF quality I have to say that they keep getting better and better. More and more features and less and less things that need any improvement. From the aluminum hatch pins to the factory built can tunnels… these things are pretty sweet. So many things, like the cowl mounts… they’re not just glued on pieces of wood that will eventually fall off… then there are blindnuts everywhere u need ‘em, and they’re all SAE, American sizes… pinned motorbox and hard points… more bevel than I’ve seen on any other ARFs and now with hinges running smooth bevel to bevel… sweet covering job, etc. etc. Wonder what’s in store for next year?:
Joe was multi-slacking so I, Monkey, got started on the plane last night. I got out a wing (the thing looks perfect) and started mounting the servos. Going with 8711s all around on this one. JR arms, and the included QB™ control horns:
I see Monkey got on here and talked some smack about getting some work done, but it didn’t take us long to find him in his usual position, i.e., hammered and out cold:
Hey man, I’m the only one doing any work up in here:
‘Course I do like to do a lil’ drink’n whilst I’m work’n, you know what I’m saying, man?:
U know, dremel’n stresses my low back:
Woohoo, thanks for the back rub, Nolasco. I always thought you swung both ways… I kid, I kid… lower, man, lower…
Team Joe heard a rumor this plane comes in at just over 23 lbs. So, I told them to step back and let the Monkey do some cutting. I dremel’d out the two rear trays and also the canister tunnel. Then I removed the landing gear cover and the canister cover, along with their blindnuts. All total, I removed 8oz of material… 1/2 pound, baby.
I worked pretty hard, so I went partying after. Ah, my freak’n head, I’m so wasted…:
I taped on the included DA-85 engine template to the firewall:
I drilled the engine mounting holes and then installed the www.microfasteners.com 1/4×20 blindnuts in the firewall. I used ZAP thin CA to glue the blindnuts in. Man, what would they do without me? They better at least let me fly the maiden!:
You have to chop out some of the firewall for the DA-85. The included DA-85 template shows you where and what to chop out. A jigsaw makes very quick and accurate work of it. Can’t let Monkey have all the fun, so I chopped this out myself:
I wanted to try one of the new www.smart-fly.com PowerSystem EQ-6 units on this plane. They are similar to the PowerExpander EQ-10. The unit is an 8-channel unit and channels 2-7 are programmable. Also there is an ignition cutoff, a built in regulator for the servo power, and a failsafe switch. This unit probably fits the bill for a wide range of plane sizes and power needs. These PowerSystems will be on the market very soon… so I talked Smart-Fly into sending me out a prototype to try:
Thanks Monkey, for displaying the EQ-6 that Smart-Fly sent for me to try:
That Joe, always trying to rob me of my props. Anyone can see that www.smart-fly.com sent in the PowerSystem for me to test!:
Mounted the included aileron control horns, 8711 servos, pushrods, and the included DUBRO ball joints. There’s only the one aileron servo per aileron, so this goes real fast:
Joe Nolasco direct soldered the extension on for me and also soldered on a Dean’s 1003 connector to the end:
Put on half of the vinyl graphics from www.kirbysgraphics.com :
Found these ZAP stickers in Mark’s stuff… they are before my time… totally old school… so had to use them:
So far all we’ve done is:
cut out 8oz of wood from the fuse
start to mount the engine
mount the aileron servos and linkages
iron down the covering
install a few graphics
Meaning, we gotta get busy. lol Next we’ll do the elevators and finish mounting the engine.
While you’re waiting for us to get done… here our some of Monkey’s favorite videos:
And, one for Monkey:
Okay, yeah, I think we only have about 6 man/monkey hours in the plane so far and it’s nearly done. Anybody who knows me has to be amazed by that, because I can burn up 6 hours just thinking about how I want to do the throttle, etc. The QBs are easy, but this one has really been easy for me, a true QB™ for me, this time.
Right… so anyway… me and Monkey got busy on the elevators:
We used the stock (included) control horns and stock (included) DUBRO ball joints:
As with the single servo ailerons, it didn’t take long to complete this step:
Monkey was like, “OMG, check out the perfect balance of geometry, leverage, linearity, and resolution!”:
Here’s the engine bolted on:
Joe Nolasco installed the blind nuts and notched the corner stock:
Next I glued in the rudder hinges, these are the only hinges you have to glue in. The holes are drilled and the hinges included, though.
I gathered up what I needed to glue them in. 30min Zap Zpoxy. DUBRO reamer. Bamboo skewers from the supermarket (about one tenth the price of same from companies like SIG). Mixing cup:
I used the skewers to “press” Zpoxy onto the sides of the holes, and popcycle sticks to “press” Zpoxy onto the hinge. I run alot of throw and I’ve never had a hinge come loose. So, I guess I’ll just stick with what I’ve been doing.. even though I’m sure there are other gluing methods that give solid results.
I use the DUBRO reamer to flare out the ends of the holes a little for the hinge knuckles:
Don’t forget to lube up the hinge knuckles with vaseline or something. Otherwise glue will get in the knuckle and it will not move freely. I’ve been using this same tube of teflon lube for 6 years and it does a good job:
Hinging all done, no thanks to Monkey, who’s still hung over, literally:
Choke and throttle servos installed, pretty painless, same setup I’ve used on other rear carb engines:
Chopped up the cowl::
Here’s how I took care of power’n the rudder (8711s are just the best):
Bolted on the tailwheel into the predrilled holes (this is bad for your servo, I gotta fix this):
Four 1″ 8×32 bolts to bolt down the landing gear… yup, it’s predrilled, blind nuts already installed. Used Zap/Pacer medium threadlocker:
She’s on the gear. The wheelpants, tires, landing gear, axles, etc… are already to go… no gluing, building, or thinking, of any kind here… just, yeah, bolt it together:
A pic of “Team Joe” finishing up the plane:
I covered the bottom of F2 because it’s lighter than the wooden cover and easier to clean:
This shot shows the ignition installation:
Okay, finished! Didn’t take long either! All up weight (AUW) with a Truturn spinner and stock landing gear… 21 lbs 3 oz. I could get this thing under 20lbs!
Monkey kept insisting on doing the maiden… couldn’t have that, so… don’t worry, he should be alright ’til we get back:
Down to the flying field… Team Joe in matching Jersey Modeler Ts:
Team Joe happy to watch Mark do the flip’n:
Joe Nolasco giving the thumbs up:
And, taxi’n out for the maiden… :
Maidened today! 🙂
Early impression: Rocco makes incredibly badass little planes!
Okay, some of you emailed me that you were worried about Monkey. He was fine, his new gf (he already dumped the blonde, lol) cut him loose while we were out flying. I’m worried he’s plotting his revenge:
Anyway, next day Monkey shows up cuz’ JB from the Cirkus was hang’n out with Team Joe at the shop:
Monkey was wrenching on his plane and JB was asking if he could help:
Monkey showed him what he wanted him to do:
‘Guess Monkey didn’t like JB’s dremel’n cuz’ he put the monkey smackdown on ‘m. Guess he’s still al little miffed about being taped up:
Monkey told me if you want sump’n done right you gotta do it yourself:
I got an email asking, “why are you using JR 8711’s. From other posts I thought you were a Hitec user?” I responded… on the 8711s versus prior servos I enjoyed… the 8711s are currently the best servo available, IMO, so I’m totally enjoying flying them now. It is impossible not to notice, in the air, how much different an 8711 is from a 5955. Times change, new better products keep coming out. Hitec is suppose to release a new 5955, the 7955 that has double the resolution of the 5955. That should tell you two things. One, the 5955 needed alot more resolution, twice as much, at least. And, two… why I switched. Beyond the resolution (which is a huge thing), the 8711 is still a =far= more powerful servo.
Nothing wrong with using Hitec 5955s (or even 5985s setup right and in the right applications), they are great servos, and great bang for the buck. But, if a guy can afford the JR 8711s they most definitely will make your plane fly better — feel better — be better. IMO, it is just a dreamy servo, and far superior to any servo I’ve ever flown before. But, you know, if we setup Kyle with Hitecs and me with JRs… Kyle is still going to win. lol So, in the end, the thumbs are more important. lol But, I’m telling ya’, these 8711s are majorly powerful and have awesome resolution… which makes them =feel= really really nice.
I got an email asking, “I am having trouble with a wing dropping when I pull up from a dive or in level flight when I pull the power back and pull up hard. The right wing always goes first. … I started adding weight to the wing tip to see if it was out of balance and at this point I have 1 oz of weight on the tip and it does not seem to be helping the problem any. Should I just keep adding weight until it goes away or is there another problem I am not seeing. Thanks.” I responded… Are you using a wood prop? Planes tend to be like a car in neutral going down a hill that way, sometimes (ever try to land a plane with a small pitch prop?). For precision/sport flying I think a Mejzlik 27-10 would be the ticket. It keeps a more constant “pull” even when you slow down for radiuses.
What you’ll notice, if you’re doing freestyle, is that if you slow down you will not even be able to drop a wing. If you’re going slow you can hammer full up elevator and the plane will just go into a high alpha harrier totally locked. Once stalled this plane is locked in hard. Also, while flying on the wings the plane is locked in. But, in between the two, especially with a small wood prop, you might need to ‘fly’ it.
I got an email asking, “Two things Joe, are you saying the mejzlik would be good for freestyle also? And do you remember off the top of your head the length of 1/4-20 engine bolt you used?” I responded… Props are a funny thing. Not funny haha, lol, but funny about flying skill level, type of flying, etc. Okay, when I first start flying I was trying my hardest to torque roll a H9 CAP/DA-100 and I was really struggl’n. When I bought the motor, my first DA, and one of the very first DA-100s… Jason Shulman was working at DA, and he told me a Menz 27-10 would have me TR’n with ease. But, they didn’t have any in stock. So, he had me get a Mejzlik 28-10, which they had in stock. lol Well, he was right… I struggled for a few weeks with that Mejzlik 28-10 and never got a TR. But, when the Menz 27-10 finally showed up I put it on the plane and immediately TR’d right on the runway, 5′ high. It was such a thrill, such a thrill. At my skill level at the time, going with a light wooden Menz made all the difference in the world for 3D, over a heavier slow spooling Mejzlik. But, but, lol, as you get better, or want to look better in snaps, etc (props change your snaps dramatically), you might find you like a slow spooling prop for everything. Seldom heralded, but totally amazing, Jeff Szueber (pronounced Seebur) loves to freestyle/3D a Mejzlik. Kyle freestyled a Mejzlik 3-blade forever… not sure what he’s running on “patches” currently, but he’ll run whatever is laying around. lol I am currently freestyle’n a Mejzlik on my 40% (but there was a time I would have not been able to smooth one out in the hovering). Overall the 3W 3D prop, only available for 150cc class and loud if you get on it, really flies freestyle and precision well. Props, props, props. lol Still no perfect one, like planes, engines, servos, etc. lol Which does what? Keeps us coming back! lol
A wood prop will bail you out quicker, but will also leave you on your own, with nothing pulling you when you chop the power, if you let it. A slow spooling carbon prop always has a steady pull, giving you control, but may pull you along further than you want in some situations… making you kinda fly through or further through a manuever than you wanted to. You probably have to be more ahead of it to end up exactly where you had planned, hoped to be. Which doesn’t come in to play in precision, just keeps a steady pace… but can keep you from getting your harrier rolls low until you get used to the extra pull, etc… things like that. Again, Kyle doesn’t think about, know, or care about this stuff. lol So, thumbs still win. lol
On the engine bolts, if I remember right I used the longer of the two “full thread” engine mounting bolts that www.microfasteners.com sells. The “full thread” bolts avoid the occassional problem of the shoulder of a non-full thread bolts bottom’n out in the blindnut.
SCA1440FT 4 1/4-20 X 2-1/2 FULL THREAD $ 5.00
Figured it was time for the photoshoot:
Wallpaper size pics:
Here’s some screensavers Monkey made up:
screen saver with audio
screen saver without audio
Here’s the highres downloadable slideshow:
Monkey here, yeah, just working on my new freestyle routine. What’s that behind me you ask? Oh, don’t worry about that guy:
Who’s laughing now, beotch? lol: